Hackney Otter: July 2013

A trip to the bustling metropolis of Singapore is a captivating blend of the old and futuristic.

As I look up at the towering buildings in Singapore's thriving business district, and try to

breathe through a thick blanket of humidity, there's a tangible buzz in the air.

This thriving island city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic. In 1819, it became a British colony and - thanks to the help of statesman Sir Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles - a pivotal trading post between Asia and the West.

Marina Bay Sands Resort and Gardens By The Bay Park (photo by Tori Mayo)

Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore's star has only continued to rise.

Mangrove swamps have made way for a concrete jungle of condos, glitzy shopping malls and slick skyscrapers. The 19th century warehouses lining the Singapore River at Clarke Quay, where junks once moored, now play host to a merry mix of modern and traditional bars, clubs and restaurants.

Dempsey Hill, a leafy suburb where the British military were once based, is now an ultra-hip hang-out with army barracks converted into galleries.

But Singapore is by no means merely an urban metropolis.

Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the southern coast of the main island, is a green hub where stressed-out workers head for relaxation. Meaning peace and tranquillity, this mini island (linked to the main island by a causeway and cable car) is largely covered in secondary rainforest, where peacocks and monitor lizards roam free.

Attractions here include an historic fort, walking trails, two golf courses, the Universal Studios Singapore theme park and Sentosa beach.

Back on the mainland, Singapore's old-world charm is also very apparent in the traditional architecture and local way of life. A microcosm of the Far Eastern world, the island is home to Chinese, Indian and Malay enclaves.

Walking around Chinatown, I stumble into an area of low red-roofed buildings surrounded by imposing offices. A legacy from the late 18th century, these are shophouses, low-rise premises built to house shopkeepers above their businesses.

They're used for a number of different reasons these days, but their multicoloured elaborate facades continue to add character and charm to the cityscape.

Shop house (photo by Tori Mayo)

Shop houses (photo by Tori Mayo)

Former private residence now a museum-come-shop Baba House, on the edge of

Chinatown, is a fine recreation of a 1920s Peranakan shophouse and well worth a visit.

Equally distinct in character is the vibrant, flower-festooned fiesta that is Little India. Deepavali or 'festival of lights' is in full swing when I visit, and the streets are swathed in yellow flowers, lights and festive decorations.

Little India (photo by Tori Mayo)

Alongside the tikka houses, tailors and Hindu temples, it's the markets and arcade stalls that really dominate the area. After purchasing an abundance of Indian bangles and a refreshing mango lassi, I find time for some preening at Queen's Tailoring & Beauty Parlour. For 5 Singapore dollars my eyebrows are threaded while two seamstresses fashion garments in the cosy room.

An unlikely find in Little India, I lunch in Broadcast HQ - a trendy record shop, club and cafe with a simple mid-century vintage interior. I tuck into their Broadcast St-Louis-style Ribs in a rum and coke marinade and Smokey Fries With Lime Ketchup, while listening to a podcast mix on wireless headphones.

Broadcast HQ (photo by Tori Mayo)

Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and a visit wouldn't be complete without sampling cuisine from the melting pot of flavours in a hawker centre. These bustling, canteen-like food courts are a more sanitary hybrid of the unregulated market stalls of old.

Hawker stall (photo by Tori Mayo)

There are more than 100 on the island, housing a total of 15,000 stalls. For as little as 5 Singapore dollars, diners can choose from Malay, Indonesian, Korean, Thai, Japanese and

Vietnamese dishes.

Shopping is another obsession in Singapore. Locals used to do their shopping in open street markets, where shoe shiners and sugar cane vendors plied their trade. The first shopping arcade arrived in the Sixties and now Orchard Road, Singapore's most famous shopping street, is an intimidating maze of malls.

Strangely, British high street staples, Marks & Spencer, H&M and Topshop sell collections here in line with UK seasons, irrespective of the Far Eastern climate.

The locals, though, don't seem too worried. As I soon realise, Singapore thrives on embracing variety.

Where to stay

:: W Singapore Sentosa: On Singapore's exclusive sister island of Sentosa, just a 15-minute drive from the main island, the newly opened five-star W melds fashion-forward glamour, whimsical design and a clever integration of technology.