Mushrooming coat stand drives decisions

Location – check. Budget – check. Good schools – check. Reinforced coat rack…?

I can no longer avoid this elephant in the room (photo by Tori Mayo)

Plans to update my wardrobe for autumn/winter are adding unusual requirements into the house-buying process.

Read on here at BT.com

Singapore swing

A trip to the bustling metropolis of Singapore is a captivating blend of the old and futuristic.

As I look up at the towering buildings in Singapore's thriving business district, and try to 

breathe through a thick blanket of humidity, there's a tangible buzz in the air.

This thriving island city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic. In 1819, it became a British colony and - thanks to the help of statesman Sir Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles - a pivotal trading post between Asia and the West.

Marina Bay Sands Resort and Gardens By The Bay Park (photo by Tori Mayo)

Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore's star has only continued to rise.

Mangrove swamps have made way for a concrete jungle of condos, glitzy shopping malls and slick skyscrapers. The 19th century warehouses lining the Singapore River at Clarke Quay, where junks once moored, now play host to a merry mix of modern and traditional bars, clubs and restaurants.

Dempsey Hill, a leafy suburb where the British military were once based, is now an ultra-hip hang-out with army barracks converted into galleries.

But Singapore is by no means merely an urban metropolis.

Sentosa, just a quarter of a mile from the southern coast of the main island, is a green hub where stressed-out workers head for relaxation. Meaning peace and tranquillity, this mini island (linked to the main island by a causeway and cable car) is largely covered in secondary rainforest, where peacocks and monitor lizards roam free.

Attractions here include an historic fort, walking trails, two golf courses, the Universal Studios Singapore theme park and Sentosa beach.

Back on the mainland, Singapore's old-world charm is also very apparent in the traditional architecture and local way of life. A microcosm of the Far Eastern world, the island is home to Chinese, Indian and Malay enclaves.

Walking around Chinatown, I stumble into an area of low red-roofed buildings surrounded by imposing offices. A legacy from the late 18th century, these are shophouses, low-rise premises built to house shopkeepers above their businesses. 

They're used for a number of different reasons these days, but their multicoloured elaborate facades continue to add character and charm to the cityscape.

Shop house (photo by Tori Mayo)

Shop houses (photo by Tori Mayo)

Former private residence now a museum-come-shop Baba House, on the edge of 

Chinatown, is a fine recreation of a 1920s Peranakan shophouse and well worth a visit.

Equally distinct in character is the vibrant, flower-festooned fiesta that is Little India. Deepavali or 'festival of lights' is in full swing when I visit, and the streets are swathed in yellow flowers, lights and festive decorations.

Little India (photo by Tori Mayo)

Little India (photo by Tori Mayo)

Alongside the tikka houses, tailors and Hindu temples, it's the markets and arcade stalls that really dominate the area. After purchasing an abundance of Indian bangles and a refreshing mango lassi, I find time for some preening at Queen's Tailoring & Beauty Parlour. For 5 Singapore dollars my eyebrows are threaded while two seamstresses fashion garments in the cosy room.

An unlikely find in Little India, I lunch in Broadcast HQ - a trendy record shop, club and cafe with a simple mid-century vintage interior. I tuck into their Broadcast St-Louis-style Ribs in a rum and coke marinade and Smokey Fries With Lime Ketchup, while listening to a podcast mix on wireless headphones.

Broadcast HQ (photo by Tori Mayo)

Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and a visit wouldn't be complete without sampling cuisine from the melting pot of flavours in a hawker centre. These bustling, canteen-like food courts are a more sanitary hybrid of the unregulated market stalls of old.

Hawker stall (photo by Tori Mayo)

There are more than 100 on the island, housing a total of 15,000 stalls. For as little as 5 Singapore dollars, diners can choose from Malay, Indonesian, Korean, Thai, Japanese and 

Vietnamese dishes.

Shopping is another obsession in Singapore. Locals used to do their shopping in open street markets, where shoe shiners and sugar cane vendors plied their trade. The first shopping arcade arrived in the Sixties and now Orchard Road, Singapore's most famous shopping street, is an intimidating maze of malls. 

Strangely, British high street staples, Marks & Spencer, H&M and Topshop sell collections here in line with UK seasons, irrespective of the Far Eastern climate.

The locals, though, don't seem too worried. As I soon realise, Singapore thrives on embracing variety.

Where to stay

:: W Singapore Sentosa: On Singapore's exclusive sister island of Sentosa, just a 15-minute drive from the main island, the newly opened five-star W melds fashion-forward glamour, whimsical design and a clever integration of technology.

W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

While clearly a magnet for young, impeccably polished types, the fun design and facilities are ideal for families too.

W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

Travel-weary guests would be wise to check in to AWAY Spa on arrival. The rejuvenating Detox Massage is just the tonic to help you get back on track.

W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

Guests mix and mingle over cocktails in Woobar, dine on grilled, aged meats in Skirt and a veritable global smorgasbord of Asian and Western dishes in The Kitchen Table.

Skirt, W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

Bling knows no bounds here and words, orchids and neon lighting dominate the design of the tech-heavy bedrooms. Cushions state LOVE, water bottles demand DRINK ME and the hairdryer insists BLOW OUT.

W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

Sentosa Cove's staff are seriously attentive. W's Whatever/Whenever concierge service offers everything from wake-up calls to Insider Tours of the city.

W Sentosa (photo by Tori Mayo)

Where to eat

:: Tamarind Hill Singapore: Nestled above the forested Labrador Nature Reserve, in one of Singapore's few restored 'black and white' houses, this elegant restaurant serves traditional and contemporary Siamese cuisine brought to long dining tables. Visit www.samadhiretreats.com/tamarind-hill-singapore.html

:: Pollen: British chef du jour, Jason Atherton has opened this unique restaurant under the shadow of the futuristic 'Supertrees' of the Gardens By The Bay park. Mediterranean-inspired cuisine is served in a vast biosphere-like, climate-controlled space, surrounded by lush vegetation. Visit www.pollen.com.sg

Gardens By The Bay (photo by Tori Mayo)

:: White Rabbit: An abandoned garrison chapel built for the British military in the 1940s located just off the trendy Dempsey area, is now home to this old-school restaurant and bar, serving classic European comfort food and age-old cocktails. Visit www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg

Where to party

:: Zouk: Four distinctly different clubs: Velvet Underground; Phuture; The Wine Bar and the main Zouk room form legendary mega club, Zouk. Phuture caters for a younger R&B-loving crowd while the main Zouk room is the hub attracting classic club heads. Visit www.zoukclub.com

:: Orgo: Cocktails created by impressively-skilled Japanese mixologists are quaffed in transparent cubes in this quirky pop up-style rooftop bar and restaurant. Don't miss the spectacular views of the Marina Bay development. Visit www.orgo.sg

:: Broadcast HQ: This intimate restaurant, club and store, curiously located in Little India, has a cosy, warehouse feel featuring vintage furniture, a subdued colour palette and exposed brick walls. Visit www.broadcasthq.com

Broadcast HQ (photo by Tori Mayo)

Where to shop

:: PACT: A must for discerning design lovers and unlike anything else around Orchard Road, industrial minimalism is the hero here. This three-in-one clothing and lifestyle boutique, salon and cafe, is a seriously hip union of menswear boutique, K.I.N, Japanese-Vietnamese inspired cuisine by Kilo and hair salon PACT + LIM. Visit www.visitpact.com

:: Asiatique Collections: A one-stop-shop for cosmopolitan globetrotters looking to take home a little something from the 'Emporium of the East', this elegant furniture and home accessories boutique in fashionable Dempsey blends contemporary design with Asian and European influences. Visit www.asiatiquecollections.com

I'm not buying it

I did it!

From May 1 to May 31 I didn't buy anything stylish.

I'm so proud of myself!

As promised here's the post experiment analysis.

I can't say I didn't acquire anything stylish over that period. There was some swapping along the way but no money changed hands during the experiment. Also I did pay £10 for the top from the jumble sale which the seller let me have in advance and yesterday I went down to Shoreditch to pick up a £5 pair of chinos which were put aside for me. I'm not so happy about having done that one.

Some may wonder what all the fuss is about but you only realise you have a problem with something when you have to give it up.

This was all about finances not about how many clothes I have. I wanted to change my way of thinking. I hoped I might be able to turn down the desire to have stylish things and maybe not necessarily act on the desire without thinking about the financial consequences.

I wanted to create the Pinterest board as a substitute for actually having the things. As a photographer I hoped to gain satisfaction from the visual display of my taste - a kind of visual therapy. Like writing a diary I hoped to pour out my visual thoughts onto a page.

Looking back at the board I can reflect on what might have been. Of course I now own some of the things - the 70s handmade top, blue brocade belt and I've since bought the swimming costume (perfect for London Fields Lido days and beach holidays).

I had wondered if I would be really sad about some of the pieces I didn't buy. There's just one clear winner I'm definitely coveting...

Neon check print dress from Pelicans & Parrots

I went to the shop yesterday and clearly someone loved it as much as I do - it's gone :-( 

Clearly if you snooze you loose when it comes to vintage. This is why I tend to buy things when I see them as there's every chance they won't be there when I go back.

At the end of it all I was better off in the pennies department. I wasn't so short of cash as I normally would be and best of all it definitely changed the way I think about buying.

If I want to take a leaf out of some of my friends' books who live in London and have saved enough money for deposits for houses in London then I'll need to change my way of thinking.

There's no doubt I'm not completely cured. I'll never be minimal and variety will always be the spice of life for me. There are things I won't be able to get out of my head until I have them but I've made a good start and it's a work in progress.

I'm thinking I might do this every three months as a kind of regular detox. It should help keep me in check.

Thanks all for following me while I do this. Hopefully it will inspire you to give it a go if you think you might benefit from this kind of purchasing abstinence.

I shall be ebaying some old bits so watch this space and I'll link to them if you want to grab some bargains of your own.

Peace out people, HO xx

I'm not buying it

Pay day has come and gone.

 

Detoxing is nearly done.

 

The little extension between posts is down to me finding this process really hard. I haven't been putting myself in the way of temptation like I usually would. Still, the devil on my shoulder has been doing overtime!

Wills Moody was nearly my undoing (photo by Tori Mayo)

Over the bank holiday weekend I had a stall at the Wills Moody Jumble Sale at The Lexington in Islington. I love this place. There's always a really good mix of vintage and cool high street fashion at proper jumble prices.

I knew this would be torture for me as I wouldn't be able to resist taking a peak at the other stalls.

M&S cardigan,  resisted at only £3 (photo by Tori Mayo)

I spotted a couple of pairs of gorgeous cat eye spectacle frames, a 70s handmade summer top, elastic gladiator flats, a Chanel-style jacket, blue brocade belt and a gold bracelet.

Blue brocade belt, on sale at £5 (by Tori Mayo)

70s handmade wrap top, £10 (photo by Tori Mayo)

When the going gets tough the tough get swapping. I bent the rules. I might have mentioned the 'I'm not buying it' detox to some of the stall holders and that I'd be open to swapping things from my stall.

The seller of the bracelet was happy to swap it for a hair band and the belt owner came over at the 11th hour and negotiated an exchange for a pair of cocktail glasses. I have to be honest with regard to the 70s top. I asked the seller for her details so I could buy it at a later date. To my surprise she suggested I take it with me and pay for it at the end of the challenge. So no money changed hands and I was very touched by her trusting nature.

I managed to sell the cropped trousers of my last post. But I'm keen to get them replaced pronto.

Clearly I'm finding this tough and wangling my way around it at every turn. 

It was a real buzz to get new things from the jumble sale. Still, I'll admit to looking on the internet with a view to picking up a few things I've been watching once this experiment is over. It's like I have a mental check list of clothes I want and I can't rest until I've acted on my thoughts. This is especially true when I'm looking to replace something I've really loved and got my money's worth out of.

Many of them are one offs so I haven't wanted to draw too much attention to them in case they get snapped up by my fellow enthusiasts!

I have to share this one with you though. It's so cute!

Vintage bathing suit

I've got a trip to Greece coming up soon. A pair of Aldo gold gladiator sandals at £6.99 would be perfect. I'm praying they are still in the charity shop next week!!

So, there's only two days left to go.

I'm winning so far - just.

Watch this space for the post challenge analysis.

Moth matters

How heartbreaking is it when you dig out your favourite cashmere only to find it peppered with holes and material which disintegrates in your hands? Or you've popped along to a jumble sale or car boot, unearthed a musty vintage gem only to find moth larvae happily feeding off the fibres. Not exactly the best house guest.

Moths are literally eating away at the vintage fabric of society.

These infuriating eating machines like nothing better than wool, silk and even synthetic fibres so it's these pieces you should be looking to protect.

Moths tend to emerge from their cocoons in spring/early summer but these days as houses remain at a warmer temperature throughout the year they're pretty much a moth Mecca around all year round. 

They're drawn to the dark recesses of your wardrobe as well as human skin, hair and sweat on clothes.

The critters stay in the cocoon for about two months so check your clothing on a regular basis and remove any you spot at this stage.

So it's definitely worth casting an eagle eye over your clothes regularly to check if any moths have bedded in.

Lavender and cedarwood are meant to repel moths but I've seen a massive colony of eggs laid all over lavender bags like a scene straight out of Alien.

Whether you're buying vintage clothes or checking on your treasured threads, here's what to look for:

• Small light brown moths
• Tiny mustard seed like red/brown dots which are eggs
• 1cm long transparent, tubular cocoons with the dark brown dot of the caterpillars head often visible inside
• Traces of cob-web/snail trail-like remains of their cocoons which they've emerged from
• Little, wiggly, cream caterpillars like maggots

Google images has got it covered if you can bring yourself to look! 

Here's what to do about it:

• Place sticky pheromone moth strips around the room
• Dry clean delicate fabrics
• Use moth balls (but they smell real bad)
• Sachets of moth repellent placed between garments or in the pockets.
• Spray clothes with moth repellent
• Have your precious winter fabrics/clothes dry cleaned and packed into moth proof bags before putting them away for the summer
• Ensure your moth-attracting fabrics are clean and clear of human hair, skin and sweat before putting them in drawers or in the wardrobe

Sadly it may take several years to wipe out these winged invaders but best to get on top of the situation before it gets completely out of hand.

Best of luck in your quest!

I'm not buying it

Today was close, very close, within a gnat's crotchet of caving close.

I had a long day, a commute from hell and managed to ruin my dinner.

When I'm passing time I often browse ebay on the off chance some of the things I've been looking for might just be there. Lo and behold, today of all days I struck it lucky, or not as this month I won't be buying anything stylish.

I've got a fabulous pair of cropped trousers which are few years old now and I really love them. They were always a little on the tight side but I've resigned myself to buying the next size up if I can find them. The old pair are on the pile to sell at a jumble sale in a couple of weeks. So in my mind if I find a pair they are just replacing old for new. I've looked day in day out for a replacement pair and bingo - today I spotted some on ebay.

Coming in at around £6 with postage they are a steal. Ordinarily I'd bid on them without question, especially after a day like today. Not this month.

It's so frustrating not to be able to keep my original intentions for those trousers alive.

Seems it's masochist May for me. Last weekend I took myself down to Crystal Palace to visit a pal and of course a few vintage shops. The south London spot is something of a Mecca for vintage furniture and clothes stores. I looked in at the collectors market, Vintage Hart - the tiny vintage shop in the front of the White Hart pub, Vien clothes shop and tea room and ID Furniture & Lighting on Church Road.

Gerald Kelly Saw Ohn Nyum Tretchikoff print (photo by Tori Mayo)

This was staring me in the face as soon as I walked through the door of the 20th Century design shop. 

I first came across this Gerald Kelly Saw Ohn Nyum Tretchikoff print in the Notting Hill Exchange bric-a-brac shop. At the time it was being sold for £80. I didn't buy it then but did win one on ebay for about £50. When I got it I was disappointed with colours of the reproduction and re sold it on ebay at a loss. So there she was, haunting me. The colours in this version were just right and the frame was perfect too. Just shows it's best to buy these thing where you can really see them and not from ebay.

Pleased to say that this time I resisted. 

This is a real test alright!

I'm not buying it

So, May 1 has come and gone and here's where I'm at.

So far so splendid.

I realise I should have started this experiment from pay day and not the 1st of the month which I did as a nice obvious start date. 

I did go to the Wills Moody jumble sale in Islington just before the trial and picked up a cashmere cardigan with a fur collar for £10 which could have set me back around £100 in vintage shops I've seen them. I was also swayed by a dress from a high street store that I've had my eye on for ages which was only £3.

Since May 1 I probably haven't put myself in as many tempting situations as I usually would. Still, over the bank holiday I ventured via some boutiques, a boot sale - and so it begins.

Check the progress of my pins at http://pinterest.com/hackneyotter/im-not-buying-it/

Shopping on the first day of summer, I could easily have been down nearly £40 on either of these two beauties. They're both just my colours, one offs in my mind and not too pricey all things considered.

Dress £35 (photo by Tori Mayo)

Skirt £38 (photo by Tori Mayo)

I also spotted these navy shoes in Beyond Retro. Not too shabby at £18 and perfect for summer swing dancing.

Blue pumps £18, Beyond Retro (photo by Tori Mayo)

I couldn't help but notice this little number on sale on Facebook which would also be swell for my holiday next month.

Vintage swimming costume, $78, Ooh La La! Vintage Swap and Sell Shop, facebook.

Whenever I'm in the market for something practical I still like to feel I unearthed it or discovered a unique version. The need suddenly feels ever greater when something really special presents itself.

I could use a new mobile phone cover and I feel I hit the jackpot at the Princess May boot sale on Kingsland Road. I met a lovely Greek lady selling these charming covers. 

made-to-order iPhone cover £12-£14 (photo by Tori Mayo)

She incorporates photos and illustrations from her granddad's postcard collection into the kind of old-school covers I'd like to have had on my Major Morgan or Speak & Spell.

Postcard used for iPhone cover design (photo by Tori Mayo)

Meeting the lady herself and hearing how she turned something so personal into an adorable product was a really endearing experience.

I don't think I'll be able to stop myself from buying one of these once this experiment officially ends...

It's this part of shopping I find really difficult not to indulge in.

Still, no slip-ups so far.

I have to realise there will always be nice things out there and I need to learn to detach a sense of self I see in those which tempt me...

I'm not buying it

I've never dieted, given anything up for lent, stuck to a New Year's resolution or broken a habit.

However, since I started earning £30 a week working as a chambermaid at 15 I've developed a bit of a problem. I've been snapping up a little of what takes my fancy to bolster my wardrobe, add to the shoe pile, spruce up my living space and top up the vinyl library.

Nothing too unusual there you might say. I'm not talking major credit card debt, hoarding or bankruptcy, but the overall effect is not be able to say no to clothes which really suit me, 'bargains', 'rare finds' and things which are 'really me'.

As William Morris said 'Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful'. The result is I have rather a lot of clothes, shoes, accessories and vinyl!!

(photo by Tori Mayo)

I used to run a vintage bric-a-brac stall down Brick Lane. Under the guise of shopping for the stall, I'd often end up buying bits for myself and not to sell cause they were cheap, had that one-off quality and I wouldn't be able to go back for them.

I don't have to tell vintage shoppers about the allure of car boot sales, charity shops and eBay. The adrenalin rush of getting your hands on that certain something is virtually unrivalled. I can't seem to shake this instinct. I have the kind of eyesight which is usually reserved for ornithologists!

Justifying these acquisitions is second nature - 'it was £1', 'it's just what I needed to complete my outfit', 'it's made for me', 'it might not be there if I go back'.

As a creative I've always had a keen eye for fashion and design. I know a fair bit about designers, art history, classic designs. Knowing this only exacerbates my curiosity, makes me want to learn more even if its via the medium of retail.

I used to make jewellery and weave friendship bracelets as a kid. Over the course of my foundation year and photography degree I was constantly producing artwork. DJing and knitting have been creative outlets too. These days, aside from the odd photo, I feel I only really 'create' and express myself through my choice of clothes and interior design at home. I depict my taste through crockery, cushions and clothes.

It's the acquisition itself as much as having the actual thing. But I definitely feel certain items are an extension of my creativity and sense of style. These sartorial purchases act as an artistic form of self expression. I pride myself on buying lovely pieces which go towards completing an outfit or a collection.

I don't grow tired of most things I buy as I choose carefully and appreciate them years down the line. Consequently these things mount up Rather than buying this seasons look from the high street, unearthing that hidden gem wins hands down every time. It means once I've discovered something I consider perfect I can't let it go, if its less than say, £40.

Perfect example This weekend while out and about in Dalston a royal blue jumper hanging on a rail behind the mesh of a stall on my street caught my eye. I recognised it immediately as being from Primark. I'd bought the same one about a year ago but sadly had to take it back as it didn't fit. Through the mesh I could see it was the right size. I asked how much it was. At £2 I had to get it. I'd only regret it if I didn't.

Bits I acquired last weekend

Next I went to the charity shop Traid on Kingsland Road to drop off a couple of bags of unwanted clothes. I had a browse around and picked up a gorgeous black leather belt with gold geometric details, from Topshop for £6.99. Good skills I reckon.

Up the road in Pelicans & Parrots I could have easily bought 10 gorgeous vintage bits - a green wool skirt, a beautifully cut black coat, black leather handbag to replace my trashed Primark bag, stunning jewellery box, strange unidentified wooden block thing with a magnifying glass, a gold link/chain bracelet and a really unusual necklace.

This kind of expenditure might be incremental, hardly breaking the bank, but now, with bending rails in my wardrobe and repeated, regretful dips in the cash flow, I'm going to embark on an experiment.

Its time for the 'Didn't Buy It Detox'.

Starting May 1, I won't be buying anything stylish until May 31. Practical yes, stylish no.

Instead of buying things I really want, I'll photograph them instead. Plan is to post the pics here and on Pinterest each time, creating a record of the objects I've passed up.
This won't include a pair of black high-waisted jeans I'm currently bidding for on eBay. These are to replace a pair I lived in until they wore out recently.

I promise to report back on any slip-ups and sneaky purchases!

Weaknesses:
Cute vintage clothes perfect for a swing dancing trip to Como
Clear glass espresso saucers for some little glass cups which don't have saucers. I haven't managed to find any which work yet.
A plain black dress to go with the belt I've just bought
Anything I'm looking to replace

So this is what I'm gearing up to do.

I'm actually really looking forward to seeing the virtual mood board of my taste rather than seeing money disappearing from my account.

Also I'm dying to know if I can actually do this. 

Watch this space!

Daschunt

DUMBO, Brooklyn, New York (photo by Tori Mayo)

Daschunt

Fashion darling! Galway, Ireland (photo by Tori Mayo)

Lure of Latvia

Art Nouveau façade in Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

As I wander around the smart hotel in my dressing gown and slippers, scents of wild strawberry puree waft from my skin.

This isn't the result of an accident with a smoothie, but the after-effect of a detoxing fruit body scrub at the Amber Spa hotel in Jurmala, Latvia.

Knowing little about the tiny Baltic republic of Latvia, a former Soviet state now part of Europe, I took a gamble, following in the footsteps of a friend who had visited its capital, Riga.

She'd spoken of its world-famous art nouveau architecture, craft markets, buzzing atmosphere and Bohemian spirit, describing it almost like a mini-Berlin, though it's known as the Paris of the Baltics.

While the chance to explore a new city is always alluring, I want to take time to de-stress and unwind.

Amber Spa hotel is only a 20-minute drive from the capital Riga, has a beautiful coastal setting and boasts an extensive list of beauty therapies, treatments and personalised holistic programmes.

Affluent Jurmala is the largest resort city in the Baltic and a popular destination for Latvians and holidaymakers from further afield looking to benefit from its natural  treasures. The region is famed for its ' natural therapies especially mud treatments.

Pine woods in Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

The nearest beach to Amber Spa is only a five-minute walk through the forest. A scenic jog, stroll or cycle are on the doorstep and there are nature trails, aromatherapy walks and entertaining beach volleyball tournaments.

In my hotel room, I'm intrigued to find a punnet of tiny, tasty berries, looking not too dissimilar to teeny strawberries. Not so savvy on the latest health kicks, I'm guessing they're goji berries.

While I'm eager to start selecting my spa treatments, a note from the hotel has caught my eye. It details the weather forecast, upcoming events in Jurmala and recommends I have a vacuum body massage with lymph drainage.

Though grateful for the recommendation, which promises to help get rid of fat deposits, it sounds too complex to comprehend at bedtime. So I polish off the last of the red 

things and indulge in that age-old therapy – sleep.

Breakfast at Amber Spa, Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

Next morning, over an amazing buffet breakfast at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, which includes Latvian curd, cold meats, muesli, salmon and German black bread, I learn that the red berries were locally-picked wild strawberries and not the latest antioxidant or super fruit.

Before my spa experience, there's time for a walk into the centre of Jurmala - once considered the St Tropez of the former Soviet Union.

Passing traditional wooden residences, typical of the area, I'm soon strolling down the sophisticated main street, lined with little shops, hotels and cafes.

It's market day and stalls are selling Latvian wares including amber jewellery, hand-knitted mittens and local delicacies including freshly-foraged mushrooms and jams.

Freshly picked mushrooms at the street market in Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

Jurmala City Museum is worth a visit to see how the resort established itself and also the history behind its wellbeing culture.

Jurmala City Museum (photo by Tori Mayo)

Refreshed from my walk, I don my robe and slippers and head to the spa for an intense sports massage. Not the most relaxing, but it loosens knotted muscles and straightens me out.

A guest of the Russian baniya at Amber Spa (photo by Tori Mayo)

I can’t resist trying the Russian baniya too. A commonplace activity for Russians on a Sunday afternoon, it usually consists of a dry space to sit and relax, eat, drink and chat as well as a wet area with sauna, cold pool, showers and treatment rooms. Men, separated from women, often play cards and even broker business deals in the baniya, while women socialise and beautify themselves.

On entering the baniya, it's apparent that if I'm going to have the authentic experience, I'm going to have to bare all!

For most of the afternoon I take strict instructions from the burly but rather endearing manageress, or 'poparshitsa', which literally means 'steam maker'.




The poparshitsa of the Russian Baniya (photo by Tori Mayo)

I'm told to shower, don a special felt hat to protect my head from the intense heat, and sweat it out in the steam room before taking the plunge into the cold pool.

I repeat this several times, and during one session in the steam room the poparshitsa bats me down from head to toe with aromatic oak besoms (bundles of soft twigs) which contain phytoncides in the leaves to open my pores and stimulate circulation.

Unable to speak Latvian, I'm unprepared as she marches me over to a corner of the baniya where a large container of icy water is poured over me from a great height. My senses are definitely awakened!

Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

Nestling in neighbouring pine woods, in the grounds of another sanatorium, Jantarnij Bereg, is the private dacha or holiday home of former leader of the Eastern Bloc, Brezhnev. Visitors to this retreat follow in the footsteps of politburo members as if time has stood still.

Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

The study in Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

R&R is just the ticket but Riga beckoned. The capital can be easily reached by a short taxi ride or train from Jurmala. By day it’s worth heading straight to the colourful Art Nouveau or Old Town areas as they are not to be missed.

Symbol for the Art Nouveau district in Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

Riga is said to be the art nouveau capital of Northern Europe. The ornate buildings bear countless figures and faces, with all sorts of expressions worked into their facades.

Old Town Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

It’s no surprise that Old Town Riga is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is such a pretty patchwork of colourful roofs, charming chocolate box fronts and cobbled streets.

Old Town also boasts the largest concentration of quirky bars, shops and artisan cafes.

A good few second hand shops selling Russian relics and cafes dotted around the city tap into the trend for all things vintage, if you know where to find them. My favourite is Otra Elpa - the first charity shop in the country.

Dessert at Bergs (photo by Tori Mayo)

It's easy to dine cheaply in Riga or indulge in exquisite epicurean fare. I've been to Restaurant Bergs twice and I'd return to Riga at the drop of a hat just to dine there again. Elegant and understated, chic yet cosy, the conservatory setting features a quirky black and white chequered floor, petrol blue paintwork and rattan seating.

The waiters and sommelier are wonderfully attentive, yet laid back. The melt-in-your-

mouth steak I ordered is etched into my top five food memories.

Bonera café, Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

Bonera vintage-style cafe and shop is adorable. Coffee and cake is served up front while with vintage clothes and accessories share the space at the rear. This dandy and doilies spot is the perfect pitstop on the vintage trail. 

Off the beaten track, Piens bar-come-club is a quirky, hipster hangout. Shabby mismatched lounge furniture,  re purposed banquette seating at the bar and lamp lighting make this joint on the outskirts of town a find you'll want to keep to yourself.

Cafe Gauja (photo by Tori Mayo)

  

Cafe Gauja (photo by Tori Mayo)

I step back in time to the Soviet era once more at Cafe Gauja. Here the mid-century furnishings, black electrical sockets, chess and dominos make this little bar feel like a typical Soviet apartment.

I don't mind saying I'm a little bit in love with Latvia.