Lure of Latvia

Art Nouveau façade in Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

As I wander around the smart hotel in my dressing gown and slippers, scents of wild strawberry puree waft from my skin.

This isn't the result of an accident with a smoothie, but the after-effect of a detoxing fruit body scrub at the Amber Spa hotel in Jurmala, Latvia.

Knowing little about the tiny Baltic republic of Latvia, a former Soviet state now part of Europe, I took a gamble, following in the footsteps of a friend who had visited its capital, Riga.

She'd spoken of its world-famous art nouveau architecture, craft markets, buzzing atmosphere and Bohemian spirit, describing it almost like a mini-Berlin, though it's known as the Paris of the Baltics.

While the chance to explore a new city is always alluring, I want to take time to de-stress and unwind.

Amber Spa hotel is only a 20-minute drive from the capital Riga, has a beautiful coastal setting and boasts an extensive list of beauty therapies, treatments and personalised holistic programmes.

Affluent Jurmala is the largest resort city in the Baltic and a popular destination for Latvians and holidaymakers from further afield looking to benefit from its natural  treasures. The region is famed for its ' natural therapies especially mud treatments.

Pine woods in Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

The nearest beach to Amber Spa is only a five-minute walk through the forest. A scenic jog, stroll or cycle are on the doorstep and there are nature trails, aromatherapy walks and entertaining beach volleyball tournaments.

In my hotel room, I'm intrigued to find a punnet of tiny, tasty berries, looking not too dissimilar to teeny strawberries. Not so savvy on the latest health kicks, I'm guessing they're goji berries.

While I'm eager to start selecting my spa treatments, a note from the hotel has caught my eye. It details the weather forecast, upcoming events in Jurmala and recommends I have a vacuum body massage with lymph drainage.

Though grateful for the recommendation, which promises to help get rid of fat deposits, it sounds too complex to comprehend at bedtime. So I polish off the last of the red 

things and indulge in that age-old therapy – sleep.

Breakfast at Amber Spa, Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

Next morning, over an amazing buffet breakfast at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, which includes Latvian curd, cold meats, muesli, salmon and German black bread, I learn that the red berries were locally-picked wild strawberries and not the latest antioxidant or super fruit.

Before my spa experience, there's time for a walk into the centre of Jurmala - once considered the St Tropez of the former Soviet Union.

Passing traditional wooden residences, typical of the area, I'm soon strolling down the sophisticated main street, lined with little shops, hotels and cafes.

It's market day and stalls are selling Latvian wares including amber jewellery, hand-knitted mittens and local delicacies including freshly-foraged mushrooms and jams.

Freshly picked mushrooms at the street market in Jurmala (photo by Tori Mayo)

Jurmala City Museum is worth a visit to see how the resort established itself and also the history behind its wellbeing culture.

Jurmala City Museum (photo by Tori Mayo)

Refreshed from my walk, I don my robe and slippers and head to the spa for an intense sports massage. Not the most relaxing, but it loosens knotted muscles and straightens me out.

A guest of the Russian baniya at Amber Spa (photo by Tori Mayo)

I can’t resist trying the Russian baniya too. A commonplace activity for Russians on a Sunday afternoon, it usually consists of a dry space to sit and relax, eat, drink and chat as well as a wet area with sauna, cold pool, showers and treatment rooms. Men, separated from women, often play cards and even broker business deals in the baniya, while women socialise and beautify themselves.

On entering the baniya, it's apparent that if I'm going to have the authentic experience, I'm going to have to bare all!

For most of the afternoon I take strict instructions from the burly but rather endearing manageress, or 'poparshitsa', which literally means 'steam maker'.




The poparshitsa of the Russian Baniya (photo by Tori Mayo)

I'm told to shower, don a special felt hat to protect my head from the intense heat, and sweat it out in the steam room before taking the plunge into the cold pool.

I repeat this several times, and during one session in the steam room the poparshitsa bats me down from head to toe with aromatic oak besoms (bundles of soft twigs) which contain phytoncides in the leaves to open my pores and stimulate circulation.

Unable to speak Latvian, I'm unprepared as she marches me over to a corner of the baniya where a large container of icy water is poured over me from a great height. My senses are definitely awakened!

Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

Nestling in neighbouring pine woods, in the grounds of another sanatorium, Jantarnij Bereg, is the private dacha or holiday home of former leader of the Eastern Bloc, Brezhnev. Visitors to this retreat follow in the footsteps of politburo members as if time has stood still.

Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

The study in Brezhnev's dacha (photo by Tori Mayo)

R&R is just the ticket but Riga beckoned. The capital can be easily reached by a short taxi ride or train from Jurmala. By day it’s worth heading straight to the colourful Art Nouveau or Old Town areas as they are not to be missed.

Symbol for the Art Nouveau district in Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

Riga is said to be the art nouveau capital of Northern Europe. The ornate buildings bear countless figures and faces, with all sorts of expressions worked into their facades.

Old Town Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

It’s no surprise that Old Town Riga is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is such a pretty patchwork of colourful roofs, charming chocolate box fronts and cobbled streets.

Old Town also boasts the largest concentration of quirky bars, shops and artisan cafes.

A good few second hand shops selling Russian relics and cafes dotted around the city tap into the trend for all things vintage, if you know where to find them. My favourite is Otra Elpa - the first charity shop in the country.

Dessert at Bergs (photo by Tori Mayo)

It's easy to dine cheaply in Riga or indulge in exquisite epicurean fare. I've been to Restaurant Bergs twice and I'd return to Riga at the drop of a hat just to dine there again. Elegant and understated, chic yet cosy, the conservatory setting features a quirky black and white chequered floor, petrol blue paintwork and rattan seating.

The waiters and sommelier are wonderfully attentive, yet laid back. The melt-in-your-

mouth steak I ordered is etched into my top five food memories.

Bonera café, Riga (photo by Tori Mayo)

Bonera vintage-style cafe and shop is adorable. Coffee and cake is served up front while with vintage clothes and accessories share the space at the rear. This dandy and doilies spot is the perfect pitstop on the vintage trail. 

Off the beaten track, Piens bar-come-club is a quirky, hipster hangout. Shabby mismatched lounge furniture,  re purposed banquette seating at the bar and lamp lighting make this joint on the outskirts of town a find you'll want to keep to yourself.

Cafe Gauja (photo by Tori Mayo)

  

Cafe Gauja (photo by Tori Mayo)

I step back in time to the Soviet era once more at Cafe Gauja. Here the mid-century furnishings, black electrical sockets, chess and dominos make this little bar feel like a typical Soviet apartment.

I don't mind saying I'm a little bit in love with Latvia.