Tori Mayo goes on a driving trip through Jordan and finds out why it's one of the safest countries to visit.
A jewel at the heart of the arid Middle East, Jordan is rich in sites of Biblical significance and monuments of antiquity.
Given its position – bordering Israel, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Iraq and Egypt – it’s also surrounded by conflict and political unease, causing visitor numbers to drop off in recent months.
But when I arrive in capital city Amman, with fellow passengers clutching Versace bags and prayer mats, this land of contrasts feels remarkably peaceful and safe.
There’s not a hint of the unrest in Syria, and despite some Westerners' concerns, in reality this is a good time to visit: many of the key sights are less crowded than usual, and this year also marks the 200th anniversary of the rediscovery of that archaeological gem, Petra.
Hiring private drivers and taking coach tours are popular ways to explore the country, but my boyfriend and I take the more independent option of hiring a car.
After leaving the city, we travel through desert to our first stop, the Dead Sea. Famous for being the Earth’s lowest land elevation – it’s 400 metres below sea level - this region is home to a number of chic beach resorts, capitalising on the health-benefiting properties of this salt lake whose shores are shared with Israel.
We spend the night at the Moevenpick Resort and Spa Dead Sea, located in Sweimeh on the north east shore.
 |
| Sunset over the infinity pool at Moevenpick Resort and Spa Dead Sea (photo by Tori Mayo) |
A jewel at the heart of the arid Middle East, Jordan is rich in sites of Biblical significance and monuments of antiquity.
Given its position – bordering Israel, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Iraq and Egypt – it’s also surrounded by conflict and political unease, causing visitor numbers to drop off in recent months.
But when I arrive in capital city Amman, with fellow passengers clutching Versace bags and prayer mats, this land of contrasts feels remarkably peaceful and safe.
There’s not a hint of the unrest in Syria, and despite some Westerners' concerns, in reality this is a good time to visit: many of the key sights are less crowded than usual, and this year also marks the 200th anniversary of the rediscovery of that archaeological gem, Petra.
Hiring private drivers and taking coach tours are popular ways to explore the country, but my boyfriend and I take the more independent option of hiring a car.
After leaving the city, we travel through desert to our first stop, the Dead Sea. Famous for being the Earth’s lowest land elevation – it’s 400 metres below sea level - this region is home to a number of chic beach resorts, capitalising on the health-benefiting properties of this salt lake whose shores are shared with Israel.
We spend the night at the Moevenpick Resort and Spa Dead Sea, located in Sweimeh on the north east shore.
 |
| The hotel looks a lot like the old city of Jerusalem (photo by Tori Mayo) |
 |
| Moevenpick Resort and Spa Dead Sea (photo by Tori Mayo) |
The architect’s brief was to create a hotel based on the old city of Jerusalem - the Holy City is just 40km away - in a traditional Arabic style, with houses made of baked clay.
He’s done a good job. Organised like a small town, the resort reminds me of houses pictured in the Bible stories I read as a child.
Due to the high salt content, no life can survive in the Dead Sea. But the mineral-rich mud at the bottom of the lake has been used in health and beauty treatments for thousands of years.
 |
| Mud bath at the Dead Sea (photo by Tori Mayo) |
I'm itching to experience it first-hand, so don my swimsuit (although this is a Muslim country, it’s very liberal) and make my way down to the rocky beach.
I smear myself with mud and allow it to bake in the sun for 10 minutes until it begins to harden and crack. My boyfriend and I then wade back into the saline soup, bobbing weightlessly on the water’s surface.
The high salt content makes it impossible to sink, and it feels as if we’re wearing life jackets.
Guests are recommended to stay no longer than 20 minutes in the water, but we continue our pampering at the hotel’s award-winning Zara Spa. After a signature salt scrub and mud wrap treatment, we relax with cocktails by the infinity pool, watching the sunset over the Israeli border.
From a sterile sea to one brimming with life, we travel three hours along the desert highway to the Red Sea. Aside from a few tricky road signs and a minor sandstormthe journey is relatively stress-free.
 |
| A shepherd walks his flock by a highway (photo by Tori Mayo) |
A seven-minute drive from the border with Saudi Arabia, Moevenpick Tala Bay is set on a marina peppered with super yachts. Contemporary in style with chill-out bars and glossy furnishings, the resort also features lagoon-style pools and family-friendly waterslides.
Taking advantage of the clear, unspoilt waters of this protected coastline, we visit the hotel’s Sinai Dive Centre.
Much of the marine life here is unique to the Red Sea, and while exploring this treasure trove we spot a turtle, beautiful coral and an array of multi-coloured tropical fish.
Back on land, Mars-like desert plain Wadi Rumwhere scenes from Star Wars were filmed, is only a 70-minute drive away. The sunset over the 'valley of the moon' is spectacular, with stars glistening like jewels.
But the most precious moments of our trip are yet to come.
The ancient Kingdom of Petra, hidden from the West until 1812, is an awe-inspiring testament to nature and human ingenuity.
 |
| Dwellings and temples carved into the sandstone rock at Petra (photo by Tori Mayo) |
This year marks the 200th anniversary of its rediscovery by Swiss adventurer and scholar Johann Ludwig Burckhardt it's now one of the world’s most popular ancient sites. Even if the number of visitors to Jordan has fallen recently, tourists are still flocking to Petra.
Our hotel, Moevenpick Resort Petra, is a stone’s throw from the main entrance to the site, in the town of Wadi Musa. The location is perfect for early morning visits to the rose-pink city - the gates open at 7am.
 |
| The Treasury (photo by Tori Mayo) |
One of the settings for iconic 80s cinema hit Indiana Jones And The Last Crusade, Petra is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and ranked by some archaeologists as the Eighth Wonder of the World.
Built by Nabataean people, an ancient Arab tribe who made it their capital city, Petra was first established around the sixth century BC. A warren of temples, tombs and living spaces were carved into the red sandstone with manyoccupied by local tribes until as recently as 30 years ago.
Most are now permanently settled in a village on the edge of the main site but they still trade jewellery and souvenirs and offer horse, camel and donkey rides to tourists.
We prepare for the 800-step climb up the mountain of Ad-Deir to the monastery, one of the key sights in Petra.
 |
| I spotted this guy standing on the edge of the world on the climb up to the monastery (photo by Tori Mayo) |
We walk quickly and make it to the top in a gruelling 45 minutes. Our reward is having the place almost to ourselves.
 |
| What a view after our epic climb to the monastery (photo by Tori Mayo) |
A handful of locals are still milling about the site. Having finished work for the day, daring Bedouin lads, wearing thick black kohl eyeliner and long headscarves, are playfully leaping between rocks.
On our way down, we catch a breathtaking sunset over Wadi Araba, where the Israeli-Jordanian peace treaty was signed in 1994.
 |
| On top of the world and looking down on creation (photo by Tori Mayo) |
It’s a fitting end to our trip. Sadly, wars may be raging elsewhere in the Middle East, but in Jordan life goes on as normal. For many years, the sandstone caves of Petra provided safe shelter for so many people, and two centuries later it doesn't feel much different.
TRAVEL FACTS Tori was a guest of Moevenpick. For the latest special offers and promotions, further information and reservations visit www.moevenpick-hotels.com. Royal Jordanian flies daily from London Heathrow to Amman. Visit www.rj.com or call the reservations team on 08719 112 112 for further information.
No comments:
Post a Comment